Boston!

J and I recently spent a few days in Boston. We went to a Red Sox game at Fenway, walked the Freedom Trail, spent some time in Cambridge and Harvard...it was a great time!

Our hotel was gorgeous and perfectly located in downtown Boston. The first room they gave us, however, had very clearly been smoked in. We went downstairs to switch and the front desk was very apologetic and offered us a free meal in the hotel restaurant, Pairings. Unfortunately, it was the worst meal we've ever had. I took a bunch of pictures but I won't show them as it was so bad. We ordered a shrimp appetizer that came out with the heads still on. When J bit into his shrimp, some cold, fishy juice squirted into his mouth. It wasn't even cooked all the way. He quickly switched his entree from the scallops to a burger. I ordered three small plates, which on the bright side were cooked all the way through but tasted pretty bad. J's burger however, ordered medium, was very raw. He just ate his fries. I don't think we'll be accepting a free hotel meal again!

The next day we took a little detour off the Freedom Trail to venture into Boston's Little Italy to sample some cannoli.

Our first stop was Mike's Pastry. This pastry shop is locally famous and is a favorite of Bill Clinton.

We both really enjoyed this cannoli. The shell was nice and crisp and didn't crumble apart when we bit into it. The filling however was a little thick, but still delicious.

Conveniently located right across the street from Mike's is Modern Pastry. Modern offers fresh filled cannoli. You can choose a type of cannoli shell, filling and topping. In order to be consistent we ordered a plain shell with ricotta filling and chocolate chips.
Though both cannoli were very good, we both decided this was the winner. The shell was perfectly crisp and again didn't crumble when we bit into it. The biggest difference though was the filling. It was much lighter and not to sweet. Delicious.
After wandering around Cambridge for a while, and a enjoying a few beers at The Druid, we went to East Coast Grill for dinner. This corn and clam chowder was absolutely delicious. It was perfectly creamy with a little spicy bite and nice chunks of sweet potato.
East Coast Grill is known for its XXX spicy wings. I was a little afraid of the spice so we ordered them with a spicy rating of 7/10. I think we could have handled the 10 though. They had a nice kick but weren't, as the waitress warned, the spiciest thing I've ever eaten.
On our last day we took a drive out to Ipswich to go to the Clam Box. The fried clams were fresh and delicious. I had never had them before so I'm glad I got to try them but they weren't really my favorite.

Their clam chowder however was amazing. This cup was full when we got it but we both loved it so much that it was half gone before I had a chance to snap a picture. If you're ever around Boston, I would recommend taking a little side trip out to the Clam Box for some chowder.

Martha's Mac and Cheese

So a few weeks ago, before I left for Ireland, I made a big batch of the best Mac and Cheese ever. There are many versions of mac and cheese but as far as I am concerned, Martha's trumps them all. Yes, it takes more time to prepare than a box of Kraft but the final product is so amazing, you'll be happy you put in the extra effort. Whenever my sister comes to visit, she requests this mac and cheese. The last time she was in town, we polished off half (6 servings worth) in a day...it's just that good. This time, I froze all of it in individual containers so J would have something to eat while I was gone.

This makes a ton of mac and cheese. Thankfully, this recipe is really easy to half and it also freezes really nicely. I like to serve it with some salad or a green vegetable; mostly to justify the buttery-cheesy-carby goodness I'm about to consume. I also like to split the mac and cheese between two baking dishes which yields more of the crunchy edges that I crave but you can just as easily put it all in one big dish.

Martha's Baked Macaroni and Cheese

12 servings

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, plus more for casserole
6 slices white bread, crusts removed, torn into 1/4- to l/2-inch pieces
5 1/2 cups milk
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons coarse salt, plus more for water
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
4 1/2 cups (about 18 ounces) grated sharp white cheddar cheese
2 cups (about 8 ounces) grated Gruyère or 1 1/4 cups (about 5 ounces) grated Pecorino Romano cheese
1 pound elbow macaroni

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Butter a 3-quart casserole dish; set aside. Place the bread in a medium bowl. In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons butter. Pour the melted butter into the bowl with the bread, and toss. Set the breadcrumbs aside.

2. Warm the milk in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Melt the remaining 6 tablespoons butter in a high-sided skillet over medium heat. When the butter bubbles, add the flour. Cook, stirring, 1 minute.

3. While whisking, slowly pour in the hot milk a little at a time to keep mixture smooth. Continue cooking, whisking constantly, until the mixture bubbles and becomes thick, 8 to 12 minutes.

4. Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in salt, nutmeg, black pepper, cayenne pepper, 3 cups cheddar cheese, and 1 1/2 cups Gruyère (or 1 cup Pecorino Romano); set the cheese sauce aside.

5. Cover a large pot of salted water, and bring to a boil. Cook the macaroni (I used cavatappi) until the outside of pasta is cooked and the inside is underdone, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the macaroni to a colander, rinse under cold running water, and drain well. Stir the macaroni into the reserved cheese sauce.

6. Pour the mixture into the prepared dish. Sprinkle the remaining 1 1/2 cups cheddar cheese, 1/2 cup Gruyère (or 1/4 cup Pecorino Romano), and the breadcrumbs over the top. Bake until golden brown, about 30 minutes (though we needed a bit more time to get it brown, but your oven may vary). Transfer the dish to a wire rack for 5 minutes; serve.

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, plus more for casserole
6 slices white bread, crusts removed, torn into 1/4- to l/2-inch pieces
5 1/2 cups milk
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons coarse salt, plus more for water
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
4 1/2 cups (about 18 ounces) grated sharp white cheddar cheese
2 cups (about 8 ounces) grated Gruyère or 1 1/4 cups (about 5 ounces) grated Pecorino Romano cheese
1 pound elbow macaroni

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Butter a 3-quart casserole dish; set aside. Place the bread in a medium bowl. In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons butter. Pour the melted butter into the bowl with the bread, and toss. Set the breadcrumbs aside.

2. Warm the milk in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Melt the remaining 6 tablespoons butter in a high-sided skillet over medium heat. When the butter bubbles, add the flour. Cook, stirring, 1 minute.

3. While whisking, slowly pour in the hot milk a little at a time to keep mixture smooth. Continue cooking, whisking constantly, until the mixture bubbles and becomes thick, 8 to 12 minutes.

4. Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in salt, nutmeg, black pepper, cayenne pepper, 3 cups cheddar cheese, and 1 1/2 cups Gruyère (or 1 cup Pecorino Romano); set the cheese sauce aside.

5. Cover a large pot of salted water, and bring to a boil. Cook the macaroni until the outside of pasta is cooked and the inside is underdone, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the macaroni to a colander, rinse under cold running water, and drain well. Stir the macaroni into the reserved cheese sauce.

6. Pour the mixture into the prepared dish. Sprinkle the remaining 1 1/2 cups cheddar cheese, 1/2 cup Gruyère (or 1/4 cup Pecorino Romano), and the breadcrumbs over the top. Bake until golden brown, about 30 minutes (though we needed a bit more time to get it brown, but your oven may vary). Transfer the dish to a wire rack for 5 minutes; serve.

A culinary journey through Belfast, Galway, Dublin and Edinburgh

At Maggie May's in Belfast. Fish and Chips with peas.

My first pint of Guinness in Belfast!

Irish coffee from the Bushmills Distillery

Hot Toddy from Bushmills Distillery

Hot Chocolate and Baileys, delicious!

Bushmills Distillery

Chicken Pot Pie, Belfast

Bangers and Mash, Belfast

Kilkenny cream ale...very yummy!

Kingshead Tavern, Galway

At the Kingshead Tavern in Galway. Seafood chowder, so amazing! There were bits of salmon and cod and mussels, some of the best chowder I've ever had. The brown bread looks kind of plain but is really good, especially when dipped in the soup. The butter is delicious. I know it's just butter and you wouldn't think it would be different but it really is. There's probably some kind of ridiculous health code in the U.S. about producing butter. If you're ever in Ireland, taste the butter. It's so much creamier and yummier than our butter.

Pizza from Spar, surprisingly good.

Vegetable soup at a small, nameless cafe on Inis Mor near Dun Aonghasa.

All of the soup I had was creamed in someway. When I inquired about the soup of the day I was told vegetable broth, and this is what came out. Not that I was disappointed, it was fantastic home made soup.

I am embarrassed to tell you that I am one of those American's that ate at a fast food chain while in another country. It was in the airport and I was incredibly hung-over and my butty and hashbrowns saved me from certain illness.

Falafel plate at a small Greek cafe in Edinburgh. I was in desperate need of some vegetables!

In Edinburgh we decided to cook in our hostel. Everything is fried somehow so I needed a break. I felt like there was a puddle of grease in my stomach. We bought some veggies and made a salad and some stir fry with curry and brown rice.

At the Guinness Storehouse in Dublin

Roasted Barley, it gives Guinness it's distinct flavor. It smells exactly like a pint of the black stuff.

Pour your own pint at Guinness Storehouse, Dublin

Letting it settle.

Our finished pints. I am now certified by Guinness to pour the perfect pint!

Ray's Pizza in Dublin. I didn't eat here but was comforted to know that I could get a crappy slice if I so chose.

The Witchery by the Castle, Edinburgh, Scotland

Haggis! I know, I know, it sounds disgusting. But is it anymore disgusting than eating a hot dog? I decided that I couldn't travel all the way to Scotland without trying some Haggis. So I went to the Witchery where their Haggis has won awards. It was actually quite delicious, much better than I was expecting. In all fairness, I was expecting to be revolted.

The Witchery by the Castle, Edinburgh, Scotland

I have always been strongly opposed to eating veal. I won't touch it, let alone try it. But everyone kept saying how yummy the lamb is this time of year so I had to try it. Besides, it doesn't count if you're in another country.

The Witchery by the Castle, Edinburgh, Scotland

Bakeswell Tart with clotted cream. Clotted cream sounds nasty but it's really a lot like whipped cream. The consistency is a little different but it's the same idea.

Ginger Beer, not an Irish or Scottish thing but it was really good.

Cod Goujons and chips at a small cafe by Loch Ness. There are many kinds of goujons on menus over there. Chicken, various kinds of fish, etc. I'm pretty sure it's like our fingers. Like when we say chicken fingers or fish fingers.

Here in NYC, I live a few blocks from a really good bagel shop, Essa Bagel. I have to limit my trips there because I know that bagels are bad for you. In Ireland where everything is battered and fried, a bagel really is a healthy alternative.

Last meal in Dublin, fish and chips from Leo Burdocks. This picture really doesn't do it justice. We were a group of 3 and each ordered our own but easily could have shared one. They practically give you an entire fish, battered and fried to perfection.

Chicken Soup

Over the years, I have made many attempts at making chicken soup. The first was right after I moved out on my own. I had roasted a chicken, which went successfully, and wanted make soup with the leftovers. It went well until I added about 2 or 3 cups of rice and it absorbed all of the stock and I was left with chicken-y rice. Several times, I cooked all of the vegetables with the stock and used them in the soup. I wouldn't say it was bad but after boiling that long the vegetables lose all of the their flavor to the broth.

This particular version is particularly delicious, if I do say so myself. This is the kind of chicken soup I crave. The kind that cures a cold and warms your soul. It's comforting and reminds me of being home.

Chicken Soup

1 leftover chicken and any extra meat

1 onion, quartered

5 cloves of garlic, smashed

6 small carrots, peeled and halved

A handful of fresh dill

4 celery stalks, halved

Fresh ground pepper

Salt

1/2 lemon

1. In a large stock pot, combine chicken, onion, garlic, 3 carrots, dill and 2 celery stalks in a large pot. Fill with enough water to cover everything. Grind fresh pepper on top, cover and bring to a boil.

2. Once boiling, reduce heat to a low simmer. Let simmer for one hour. Taste the broth and salt to taste. Because there is already salt on the leftover chicken, it's good to wait and see how salty the broth is from the chicken. Otherwise, you may over salt.

3. Squeeze juice from lemon into broth. Continue to simmer for another hour. Taste and make any adjustments necessary (salt, pepper).

4. Using a slotted spoon, transfer all solids to a colander and reserve broth. Discard any vegetables or herbs. Separate meat from bone and return any meat to the broth.

5. While you are separating the chicken, let the broth stand on very low heat. The fat will separate from the broth and you can use a spoon to skim it off the top.

6. Slice remaining carrots and celery into discs and add to broth. Let simmer for about 20 minutes, until carrots and celery are soft. Serve and garnish with chopped dill.